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April 2006 |
Dear Friends: Spring has officially sprung here at the Virginia Natural Horsemanship Training Center (VNHTC)! The daffodils are blooming, the trees are flowering, the pastures are coming out of winter dormancy, pushing up sprigs of bright green new grass. Our horses are enjoying moving from their hay piles to the new spring shoots in their big pastures. We also love seeing the newborn crop of spring foals next to their mothers in the pastures outside the Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine reproduction education facility here in Blacksburg, Virginia -- a real treat for us horse lovers who drive by there regularly. They are simply adorable! (Hard to keep our eyes on the road when driving by them!) We're still winding up a few spring facility projects here, along with juggling clients and horses. It's my favorite time of year, where we set goals for our horses this year, and can't wait to try new things we've learned about over wintertime. Make sure you start with ground work before riding, as horses can come into spring frisky and often need a refresher course of ground work to remind them of what they know, and what is expected of them. The right groundwork serves well to shake the horsy willies out before riding, especially this time of year. We recently had the pleasure of
hosting Horse
South magazine here at the VNHTC for a weekend of private training and
overall introduction to our facilities and overnight luxury
accommodations that we offer anyone who wishes to come here
to learn natural horsemanship in a private, relaxing,
nurturing setting. Horse South Editor/Founder,
the amazingly talented Tess Vanattia
and her warmly delightful husband Kent were a blast to play with and they
walked away with understanding more about natural horsemanship
and how they can apply the NH techniques they learned to
their own horses. Watch for the upcoming issue
of Horse South magazine where there will be a feature
article about me, our training center, and more! To subscribe
to Horse South magazine, a refreshing horse
lifestyle magazine, visit their web site today:
CLICK HERE
We have more announcements...
We all can learn from each other!
Horse Training Thought For the Month - Natural Horsemanship Tenet Spend lots of time with your horse and the horse will become more bonded to you! I want to share something that someone sent to me in email recently. You might have read this before, but it's worth reminding yourself -- and there's a point I want to make at the end: The Mayonnaise Jar and 2 Cups of Coffee - When things in your life seem almost too much to handle, when 24 hours in a day are not enough, remember the mayonnaise jar and the 2 cups of coffee: A professor stood before his philosophy class and had some items in front of him. When the class began, he wordlessly picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with golf balls. He then asked the students if the jar was full. They agreed that it was. The professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured them into the jar. He shook the jar lightly. The pebbles rolled into the open areas between the golf balls. He then asked the students again if the jar was full. They agreed it was. The professor next picked up a box of sand and poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else. He asked once more if the jar was full. The students responded with an unanimous "yes." The professor then produced two cups of coffee from under the table and poured the entire contents into the jar effectively filling the empty space between the sand. The students laughed. "Now," said the professor as the laughter subsided, "I want you to recognize that this jar represents your life. The golf balls are the important things---God, your family, your children, your health, your friends and your favorite passions---and if everything else was lost and only they remained, your life would still be full. The pebbles are the other things that matter like your job, your house and your car. The sand is everything else---the small stuff. "If you put the sand into the jar first," he continued, "there is no room for the pebbles or the golf balls. The same goes for life. If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff, you will never have room for the things that are important to you. Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness. Play with your children. Spend time with your parents. Visit with grandparents. Take time to get medical checkups. Take your spouse out to dinner. Play another 18. There will always be time to clean the house and fix the disposal. Take care of the priorities. The rest is just sand." We all need recreation to stay sane in life. When we were kids, we didn't have to be told the importance of play/recreation. We "got it." As adults, our "to do" lists are too long, so we have to force ourselves to take recreational time and our horses are perfect to teach us that. I even like to take my horse Gabe for walks around our farm or in the woods if I don't feel like riding, nor have much time. More fun than walking a dog! (though my dog Callie comes along with me). Horses LOVE going for leisurely walks, plus, you can walk thru streams with them "just for fun." They really seem to enjoy those outings, with no real direct purpose. I don't see my horse as only an instrument to ride, but a pal to hang with. Like you knew as a kid that animals were good for. This gets them bonded to you even more deeply as well. My horse is a "golf ball" in my "mayonnaise jar" of life. I hope yours is, too! Spend lots of time with your horse and the rewards will be great as your partnership deepens. To learn how to train your horse yourself, step by step the natural horsemanship way, think about getting the Gentle Solutions book I co-wrote, which you can read more about and order here: CLICK HERE Check These Out! Equine artist Lorabeth Brdlik donation to The Roanoke Valley Horse
Rescue Arrangement - Commission a portrait from exceptional
Equine Artist Lorabeth Brdlik and she will donate $100
from each painting to go to the Roanoke
Valley Horse Rescue in Hardy Virginia. Check out Lorabeth
Brdlik's web site: CLICK HERE
and think about commissioning a portrait -- they make wonderful
gifts, too! Make sure you mention Sylvia Scott/Virginia Natural
Horsemanship Training Center when contacting Lorabeth so
that the contribution will go to the very worthy Roanoke Valley
Horse Rescue!
Stolen Horse International (SHI) introduces a New Economy Sign: W.H.O.A.™ Warning: Horse Owner Awareness - SHI is always researching and developing ideas to bring horse owners affordable, effective products that will aid in protecting property and animals from theft. And SHI is proud to announce the W.H.O.A. security sign that we believe offers just that. Metal signs can be expensive and unaffordable in multiples, but not this Coroplast sign! If you wish to order one of these signs in conjunction with Microchips, please view those available packages at this link: Microchip Packages This is another great product that will be available at the SHI booth during our upcoming public appearances in VA, NC and Ohio Equine Affaire, April 6-9, 2006: NetPosse Speaking Engagements - If you have any questions before placing your order or comments/suggestions, please send us an email: id@netposse.com View sign details and order here: Debi Metcalfe ...Save your Southern States coupons for SHI. See details on our home page under SHOW Program
“The partnership between The HorseTV Channel and AQHA provides a valuable opportunity for both organizations to bring exposure to AQHA’s important role in the horse industry and present exceptional events showcasing the breed to The HorseTV Channel’s enthusiastic audience,” said George Greenberg, Chairman and CEO of The HorseTV Channel. Through this agreement, The HorseTV Channel viewers will enjoy top AQHA competitions such as the Bayer Select and AQHA World Championship shows, the American Quarter Horse Youth Association’s World Championship Show and major competitions from National Reining Horse Association, National Reined Cow Horse Association and National Cutting Horse Association. “We are pleased to bring the world of the American Quarter Horse to The HorseTV Channel audience," said Bill Brewer, AQHA Executive Vice President. “We look forward to exploring opportunities available to us in this new relationship.” The HorseTV Channel is the only 24/7 television channel providing audiences of all ages with entertaining and informational programming focused on the fascinating world of horses. From silk hats to Stetsons, The HorseTV Channel offers viewers a varied and compelling lineup presenting the events, recreational activities, competitions, stories and lifestyles that we share with one of America’s most cherished icons, the horse. For more information about The HorseTV Channel, visit www.horsetv.com. The Amarillo, Texas-based American Quarter Horse Association was founded in March 1940 and is the world’s largest single-breed equine registry and membership association, with more than 4.5 million American Quarter Horses registered and AQHA membership numbering 350,000. The American Quarter Horse is the world's most versatile breed, competing in a wide range of disciplines and events including western, English, rodeo, recreational riding and racing. AQHA offers a variety of programs and services, and is supported by more than 20 Corporate Partners that offer member incentives and discounts on products and services. For more information about AQHA or the American Quarter Horse, visit aqha.com or call (806) 376-4811. The HorseTV Channel, Adryn Miller, Director, Public Relations and Community Outreach, amiller@horsetv.com, www.horsetv.com Attention All Trail Riders: Janine Wilder, trail lecturer, clinician, author, photographer and trail riding expert is announcing the release of her new book: Trail Riding - A Comprehensive Guide to Enjoying Your Horse Outdoors, published by Western Horseman Books. Lectures - Want to hear about the latest in trail riding techniques? How you can “develop” your trail horse? Find out about the trail horses instincts on the trail? What does your trail horse's behaviors mean? And much, much, more! If you are interested in having Janine & Jim Wilder at your trail ride, trail meeting, or trail gathering, please get on their schedule now! Janine & Jim have been trail riding for 20 years, traveling and riding in 49 states. For 5 of those years the Wilders, after selling their home, traveled the country as full-time RV’ers with their horses. The Wilders have a lot to share with other trail riders. To get your trail group on their schedule email them right away. Horse Travels To Purchase Janine's book: To see Janine & Jim Wilder's
Expo schedule: Ride the Remuda Productions is now accepting orders for the 2006 Road to the Horse DVD—featuring Craig Cameron, Van Hargis, Martin Black, and Stacy Westfall. Additionally, show producer Tootie Bland announces the 2007 Road to the Horse, Champion of Champions Showcase will be held in Murfreesboro, Tenn., March 3-4, 2007. The 3-disk DVD will debut in early May; orders are now being accepted. Be the first to receive your copy of this historical event—showcasing the first-ever female competitor and winner, Westfall. This is your chance to see the original colt-starting competition. “This year was extraordinary,” says Bland. “The horses were extremely challenging and each clinician was outstanding. We’re excited to show you what happened this year and invite everyone back to Tennessee for next year’s special show. Clinton Anderson and Stacy Westfall will return to defend their titles and challenge a newcomer.” On the 2006 DVD, you'll see hours of colt-starting know-how from celebrity trainers. Watch as the clinicians choose which previously untouched horse to work with. Witness trainers' initial relationship-building moments with their horses. You’ll see Black work with his horse from another mount, preparing to be the first to saddle and sit on his young horse’s back. You’ll see Cameron work to calm his young horse’s fears as he lunges him over tarps and jumps. You’ll see Hargis calm his horse while getting him used to a tablecloth touching his back. On day two, the tense competition and innovative horse training continues as the trainers mount their horses and prepare to show off their progress in the obstacle course. Watch as Westfall rides her horse at a canter around the pen— then stands on his back. Black rides his colt over a bridge— then stays in the saddle as his horse gently lies down. All the time, judges (expert horse trainers Jack Brainard, Mike Kevil, Dr. Robert Miller, Bob Moorhouse, and Toni Warvell) watch and rate each horse and handler. You'll see the whole progress. This is your trip to Road to the Horse. 2006 Road to the Horse DVD Now on Sale - Run time approximately 5 hours - Produced by Ride the Remuda Productions. 3 disc DVD set. Expected shipping date in May, 2006. Click here to purchase your copy Horse Rescues/Rehab Centers - I'm a big supporter of equine rescues. Visit them, their web sites, get in touch with them, see what you can do to help. And if you are looking for a new horse, rescues are sometimes the best place to start your search. Adopting a horse and giving it a wonderful new home can be a positive life-altering experience. And volunteering time at a rescue can help you to learn more about horses -- horses are the best teachers there are! For a list of equine rescues in the Virginia region and rescues around the country/world: CLICK HERE Horse
Problem Questions From You & Question - Horse kicks with back
feet - for everything!: Hi.
I have a 2-year-old saddlebred gelding that kicks. A lot.
With his back feet. And being a saddlebred he kicks out
sideways. And even forward a little. He kicks for everything.
If something touches his leg, he kicks his back foot. If
something touches his head, he kicks his back foot. If something
frightens him, he kicks his back foot. If he gets mad, he
kicks his back foot. If he doesn’t get his own way, he kicks
his back foot. We have tried desensitization and sacking
out. It works for that particular session and then the next
session we start all over again. Hoof trims are fun. We
have to catch his back foot and hold tight. Help! I don’t
know what to do. I love him and he is so pretty and usually
sweet, but someone is going to get hurt soon and I want
my baby to be perfect.. not perfect except… Oh, by
the way his name is T-Rex.
L. F. - Savannah, Georgia Sylvia's Answer: LOL!! You cracked me up there. Bigtime. Nice to get an email that makes me laugh, while still dealing with a horse problem! That's the healthy perspective to keep! :-) Well...your horse is only 2, so he's still very much a "little kid" (much like a 6-year old child) and because he's a little kid, he's being "allowed" (accidentally) to do this by "grown ups." Time to take back the grown up leadership position in your "herd!" But keep this behavior (mentally) in the category of a whiny child begging for candy in the grocery store and when he doesn't get his way, he throws a tantrum. That's what you're seeing there, I think. Time to turn that around. First...let me direct you to a link on my web site (in case you haven't already seen it) that will show you how to work on more foot desensitizing: For this particular problem, however, since he's kicking out at anything and everything, even none-feet-related times, like a tantrum, you really need to start making the right thing easy, the wrong thing hard there. Work him in the natural horsemanship halter/12' lead for what I'm going to show you to do there to discipline him for this act. If you don't have an NH halter/12' lead, you can get one here on my web site -- it is a very crucial communication tool -- I won't work a horse without it!: CLICK HERE When he kicks (for anything, tantrum-like), have a little bit of slack in the lead rope to begin with, and instantly (as quick after the kick as you can), jerk the lead rope down repeatedly, fairly hard, at the same time you walk into him, and make a loud "SHHHHHH" sound at the same time. This act will instantly send him skedaddling backwards. Horse's don't like to be sent backwards. Pause. Just stare at him with you at the end of the 12' lead rope. Have full eye-to-eye contact (which is a pressure), but then go quiet afterwards. Let it soak a second or two. Via pausing/soaking, the horse thinks. Via thinking, he learns. After the pause, go up and stroke/scratch him, "good boy!" Reward the quiet non-kicking spot. Go back and set him up to kick again (flush it out, don't tip-toe around it!). If he kicks, repeat that above action again. "Shhhh" with the actions means "stop it" and you're placing a cue sound into his foundation to mean "stop it" so that soon just the "shhh" sound alone will stop the kicking. Very, very quickly, he's going to think it's a real bad idea to kick out as a tantrum response. Don't hit the horse, don't yell, just consistently do the above, like I've described. Don't get mad, either. Just real quickly jerk the lead down repeatedly, give a loud shhhhhh, walk into the horse so he skedaddles backwards. Stare, pause, wait. Approach, reward. He will probably work his mouth (lick & chew) at the pause. That means in horsespeak, "I understand. I get it." The reason this works to discipline a horse for such "rude" behavior is horses follow a herd instinct that dictates: He who moves the other's feet is higher up on the pecking order, and therefore worthy of being respected as leader. Move his feet when he acts up like that, but move him backwards very quickly and faux-dramatically, and he'll quickly realize you're the "lead mare" of his herd, worthy of respecting, because it is you in charge of his feet there. And guess what? He wouldn't DREAM of kicking out at a real lead mare in a herd! She wouldn't tolerate it, and he knows it. So you're reestablishing yourself as "lead mare" of his herd. I would also make sure he's not kept alone, but ideally out with other horses, especially some mature "lead mare" type female horses who will take on the job of disciplining him as well ongoingly so he doesn't grow up clueless about respect. Real lead mare horses make the best co-trainers of young horses, in my opinion! Try doing all that from now on. Goes without saying to keep working on desensitizing the feet to make sure all fear issues there are gone, if that's still an issue; use a wand with plastic tied to the end if needed, as an extension of your arm, at first -- I sell my extendable/retractable training wand here -- is a very handy tool!: Training Wand But do separate out if he's scared or if he's acting out in tantrum form, as those are two completely different and even opposite behaviors. Use "feel" to act accordingly. Empathetically and helpfully when it's about fear. Firmly and consistently when it's about just a tantrum (an "I don't want to, I don't have to, na na, kick kick"). Incidentally: you might think about changing his name. :-) I find that when a horse has a "negative" name, that tends to manifest bad behavior. Words are important in humans. And it doesn't seem to be an accident that so many of the problem horses I get dealt have negative names (Rebel, Twister, Devil, Trouble, etc., etc.). Change the horse's name to a positive-sounding name and you'll find that you and people around him start to approach him more positively and he will mirror that positivity. We tend to manifest what we've named the horse. I've seen this hundreds of times, so I know there's something to that! :-) Question - Runaway horse when heading home & how to teach neck reining: Hi. My 4-year-old horse is a real sweetheart but he always acts silly when I ride him. It's when I start riding back towards home that he rears and tries to run off. I want to know how to make him eager to ride and have a strong bond as well as fix these problems. I also want to know how to train him to neck rein. Thank you. L. L. - Internet Sylvia's Answer: Hi L. Thanks for writing. Teach your horse the one-rein stop, which I go over in more detail here, and you'll have no further problems with him taking over like that: That's what's missing in your horse's training foundation there and is probably one of the most crucial safety features to build into your horse's foundation. As for teaching him to neck rein...Teach the one rein stop first -- which uses the direct inside rein. After he fully understands how to yield the neck with the inside direct rein and you want to teach the horse to neck rein next, start introducing the outside/indirect rein right after you ask for the head with the inside rein so he can connect the dots so to speak. Inside rein first, outside rein immediately after. He'll start realizing that when he feels the pressure of the outside rein on his neck, he is to yield away from it. Don't forget to give him instant rein releases for right answers there (slack in the rein!). Horses learn from our release of pressure what it is we want, not the pressure itself, so get your release timing very quick there for right answer responses the horse gives. Once he's mastered all that well, now work the reins together and he'll understand how to neck rein when he feels the rein pressure on his neck. But do it all in the correct order. Really get him doing the one rein stop (at all gaits) first, before working on neck reining, or he may get confused. Hope this helps and good luck to you there! Note From Sylvia:
I would like to take this opportunity to talk about some safety issues regarding runaway horses, in case you ever find yourself in this scary situation. And I'd like to pass along as well some general safety issues about riding out alone especially, and what to do if/when separated from your horse, if you are injured, etc.: Some more "emergency" tips in general: The best way to prevent a runaway horse or any such out of control situation that could have you falling off your horse unexpectedly is to take the time to teach your horse the one-rein stop ahead of time until it is complete reflex in both of you. In my opinion, there is probably no more important feature to build into your horse's foundation. Riding your horse without that in their foundation is like driving a car on black ice -- i.e., it is an accident just waiting to happen! Take the time to plant the one-rein stop until it is completely automatic and you and your horse will both be far safer for it!
Question - Horse acts aggressive to other horses when riding out & another horse lacks confidence when exiting home: Hi Sylvia. How's it going? Hope all's well with you and your family. Just wanted to pick your brains! Got a mare that is fine to handle, good to hack alone, but won't hack with others and will attack when close to others and needs to be miles in front and gets angry when behind. Any ideas? Also got a horse that we have been working with for a while and making good progress but lacks confidence when taken out of his comfort zone. He has been badly beaten in the past. When he goes out, he sometimes looks like he can't cope and will plant himself and do anything to get back to the comfortable place: home. He just falls apart and looks like the equivalent to a mental breakdown. It really worries him. We have done lots of desensitising and confidence building, but any ideas gratefully received!!! He's fine in the school now by the way; it's just when we go out. M. R. - United Kingdom Sylvia's Answer: Hi M. All's fine here, busy as a beaver! :-) Coupla suggestions there... Re the horse who acts up when riding with others, let me direct you to a link on my site that deals with a similar issue, and shows what you can do there to start making the right thing easy, the wrong thing hard: I also think this following exercise might work if you pull out another horse (preferably a "get along" horse) to start schooling grouchy horse on "this is unacceptable behavior in my herd" as "lead mare.": That one is a really effective exercise if you do it just like I've described. I take in horses for extended training and they are eventually weaned into my existing herd gradually, step by step. If I see one being too aggressive, I indeed pull them out (with another, even better if it's the one getting picked on), I establish myself as "lead mare" of the herd, and school the "grouchy one" that this is no longer acceptable here in "my herd." It works! The other horse there...I couldn't tell if he was melting down when going out just being ground led, or when riding. Either way, I would want to return to deeper bonding at those melt-down times to let him know you 1) accept his feelings, understand, and 2) you are there for him to turn to for support/nurturance, instead of feeling the need to act-out. Here are bonding suggestions (if you haven't already seen this link): If it's happening when you are riding and the horse is really melting down, do not hesitate to climb off and do your bonding techniques on the ground. There is absolutely nothing wrong with dismounting (at any time!!) when training and when a horse reaches irrational mode so highly that he no longer can concentrate on anything. You may need to alternate riding with dismounting, bonding, ground work, until he starts to associate that "it's all the same everywhere, not to worry." If the problem is really bad, because he's been so abused, start doing some creative pleasureful things (other than riding) away from his comfort zone place. Those can include doing away from his comfort zone: supplement feeding him there, grooming him there, or a combination of both. Also bringing along a been-there-done-that calmer horse alongside him as a "security blanket" might help as well, on ground and in saddle, to get him over his irrational fears. But truly, the bonding techniques are what I would want to focus on the most there, to help him past this emotional obstacle. Finger in the mouth and dropping the head being the most important, because that will produce instant relaxation. Try some or all of the above and it should help!
Question - Horse mows over humans when leading, away from home: Hi my name is G. and I really hope you could help. I have an 8-year-old new forest mare that I broke 3 years ago and have enjoyed being with. However she is just coming back into work after tendon damage. The problem is, she is fine doing everything when calm and in a known place but once to we go somewhere new, she becomes strong in hand knocking whoever is holding her away and running. However she is fine while being ridden. I have tried everything I can think of, even in a bridle it is just a matter of banging you with her head and then spinning and running. At a show she was being very naughty and ran, running the two men over that were holding her at the time. The worst thing is, she is only 12.3 hh, which becomes embarrassing. At some point I would like to feel I can walk her in hand sometimes instead of riding her to help build a bond. Thanks a lot. G. - Internet Sylvia's Answer: Hi G. Thanks for writing. This is just a common foundation hole in her training, but not to worry, you can plug it up yourself, and pretty fast, too. Let me direct you to a link on my web site for an exercise to build the proper ground manners behavior into her foundation, then practice this exercise nonstop (first at home, then gradually outside the confines of home) and she'll get far more respectful there for leading, and on the ground in general: Work on that and it should fix the problem. Let me know how it goes!
Question - Horse won't give back feet, never has: Hi, I have a horse I recently bought in October, she is 11 years old. She's great and well mannered except when I want to pick her back feet, she turns away from me and makes it really difficult to even get to them. By the time she gives up and I have them ready to pick, she pulls back and forth and shakes them, making it impossible to hold them. The farrier said she has been doing that since she was a foal and she will do that till the day she dies, but I'm not gonna except that problem but I don't know how to stop it. B. - Monroe, Georgia Sylvia's Answer: Hi. Thanks for writing. The farrier is wrong, and you are right. This problem can be fixed at any age -- I fix that problem all the time with horses - every age horse imaginable. Let me direct you to a link on my web site that will show you how to fix this problem now: Make sure you do the exercise with the horse in halter/lead, preferably a natural horsemanship halter with 12-foot lead rope like I have here: CLICK HERE -- it's a very crucial "communication tool" while you are schooling the horse in all your lessons in natural horsemanship training! Try that method to retrain her to pick up her feet and you should make rapid progress there if you follow the directions carefully. Question - Another kicking horse -- paws with front feet -- when asking for the foot: Sylvia: I am working on training two mustangs. I am at the point where I am working with their feet. The one I can lift and hold his feet up and hold them for several seconds. The other horse I put pressure on the rope to lift his feet up but then he starts pawing at the ground, trying to get the rope off. I am trying to hold pressure on the rope but it continues to either come off his foot or moves up his left and I try to keep pressure on even when he paws but it is difficult. Is there something I am missing here that I need to do when he starts pawing at the ground? I am still working on his front feet and have not moved to the back ones yet. P.S. We purchased your book and are working through everything else now. Thanks, D. H. - Sargent, Nebraska Sylvia's Answer: When a horse is very kicky there, that is when I like to switch to using my training string (as well as have the horse in the NH halter/12' lead). You can check out/order my training string here if you want to get one: TRAINING STRING The beauty of this handy, multi-purpose tool (I carry one in my pocket at all times when training) for the foot handling desensitizing lessons: one end of the training string has a loop in it, the other end, a leather "popper." For a real kicky/leg swinging or pawing horse, I take the training string and put it around the leg (after desensitizing the horse to the touch of the string first), then I run the popper end thru the loop end and I draw the string tight on the foot, just above the hoof. Since the training string is 6 feet long, this now gives me a good length of rope to hold the foot and the horse can't shake it out of my hand, plus it stays snug on the foot in that one spot, not slipping whatsoever. I hold the lead rope that's attached to the NH halter with my forward hand, keeping no slack in the lead rope. Choking up on the lead so the horse really can't go anywhere (if he moves, I will pull his head toward me, and that safely moves the hind quarters away from me, and we move in a tight circle). The training string is in my hand closest to the foot. I start off applying a tiny bit of string pressure, asking for the horse's foot, just a "try" at first. If the horse gives even a try (even a weight shift at first, preparing for the foot lift!), I release the pressure instantly (slack in the training string) to show "right answer." Stroke, praise. Dozens of times I do this before actually asking for more foot. However, if the horse picks up the foot and starts swinging it around at any time, kicking out, pawing, etc. (what you're seeing there), I keep the pressure (no slack, no "give") there, not releasing for that. All horses learn from the release of pressure what it is we want, not the pressure itself, so we don't want to be releasing for kicking or pawing, etc., there. Just steadfastly hold out the kicking, with the training string kept taut, no release. No horse can kick forever, just hold it out. There will come a moment there when the horse takes a break for a second from the kicking. A brief pause - be perceptive to see it! I release instantly at that pause/no kicking, slack put in the training string. The horse quickly learns that when he doesn't kick out is when he gains the release there, and a pause break for the right answer, a stroke for reward. If your timing is real quick for releasing for the non-kick spot, he will quickly learn what is expected of him and will start steering in that direction. But I can't emphasize enough that using the training string for this particular lesson with horses who kick around a lot with their legs is the tool of choice, gives you far more control. It's great! Question - Pony Trouble - Pony rides with head too low to the ground rebellingly: Hi, I had a 7-year-old pony that was trained last October. A week after he was trained I sold him to friends of mine as I was under the impression that he would be with their family for years. Until about 3 weeks ago he behaved brilliantly. He was the perfect child's pony. Suddenly he started to dip his head whenever asked to canter. He will canter with his nose nearly touching the ground. The more the rider tries to hold him, the faster he goes. But as he is inclined to go fast at times, it's not possible to let him go at his chosen speed. It is a nine-year-old child riding him, but with this sudden habit it is too dangerous for a child to ride him. Two other stronger riders rode him but they could not control him. Also when he puts his head down, his shoulder drops and the saddle slips forward. Do you think he developed a bad habit or is there something bothering him? If this problem cannot be dealt with, the family will sell him. If they do so the chances are high that I will not see him again. As I had him from the day he was born I would be very upset if this happened. I would be very grateful if you could help me (them) overcome this problem. Regards, K. D. - Internet Sylvia's Answer: Hi K. Thanks for writing. First...I would suggest having a thorough vet check (with a good vet), telling him/her the problem and let them examine the horse for any back, mouth or leg pain/injury/issues. You need to rule that out first. Is important. If/when that is ruled out, then you need to rule out any potential saddle and pad/pain fit issues, which I go into more detail here: If that is all carefully ruled out, then you are left with knowing it is strictly a behavioral problem, but it needs to be approached in that order. If it is a behavior problem (and all pain issues have been ruled out very carefully/thoroughly), then this horse has learned to do this as a means of avoiding work. And it's dangerous because...this may very well lead to bucking soon. In order to buck, a horse has to drop the head low to get the back positioned for the bucking action. I would go as far as to say...that horse there is very close to bucking potentially and is showing a pre-bucking stance. Time to turn it around! But it can be fixed. How I would fix it: Return to ground work, teaching this horse via pressure/release, baby steps, to yield the head from side to side (all the way over to the side). First using your hand on the muzzle (release for every inch try in the right direction), then with the natural horsemanship halter/12' lead rope, and once the horse can do it softly, compliantly, every time, then repeat the exercise with bridle bit (full cheek snaffle bit). Let me direct you to some links on my site for you to get some visuals for this head yielding lesson exercise: If your horse cannot do this well, yield the head, when you first start, then you've found your foundation hole (one of them) that needs to be plugged up - safely on the ground first - before riding him again. Stick with the ground work until he consistently, easily, yields the head from side to side automatically when asked with the lead rope and the bridle/bit. Next, climb in saddle and from this point forward, let me direct you to a link that teaches the one-rein stop, which is far more than just a "stop" maneuver, but reinforces (first at a standstill in saddle), yielding the head easily from side to side -- breaking it all down into finer baby steps: This route should fix this problem if you can grasp all I'm saying/showing here. If you find this hard to follow (hard to teach this stuff in just email sometimes!) then you might think about calling in a natural horsemanship trainer to help out there. If you need to find a good NH trainer near you, visit my new web site section: "Find a Natural Horsemanship Trainer" This horse does not need to be sold! This is a common foundation hole actually, though you do need to rule out pain issues with a vet (and saddle fit issues) first, and it can be fixed going the right route. This is not about strength on the rider's part, but about backing the horse up in training, first on the ground, then in saddle, breaking things down into smaller, digestible baby steps to get the horse there. People are often surprised at the end of some of my clinics that I have them riding their (former problem horses) with just a piece of twine, because we baby stepped the horse there to better understanding and now the horse understands how to yield the neck softly, compliantly, with the quietest ask pressure. Hope this helps and let me know if I can be of any further help to you there! Question - Your back up lesson worked!: Thank you for the reply and for referring me to your back up lesson! (Leading Problems - Horse runs over human/How to teach horse back-up cue on ground) YOUR ADVICE IS GREAT! Got my horse on the right track with backing up. Started all over slowly and calmly tapping the 12' lead rope, making the rope move just a little until I got the slightest try (horse stepped back one step), stopped, let him rest, and praised him. Tried again, he stepped back. Again with just wiggling the rope, stepped back. Definitely figuring it out when the rope wiggles: move back. The key for me was once he figured out to move back with the rope wiggling, I did not need to wiggle it as hard as I did the first couple times to get backward movement. I noticed only the slightest side to side wiggle he knew to step back. I think my earlier problem was I was wiggling it too hard, hence he was scared and was turning around to get away. After a few more successful tries, I ended on a positive note. By the way, coming in again is never a problem with this horse as he loves to lick between my fingers! Thanks again. R. H. - Loxahatchee, Florida Sylvia's Answer: Wonderful! Good work there, R.! Starting low on the pressure scale and only building up incrementally is the key to all pressure/release natural horsemanship training. Across the board. Translate what you just learned there outwardly now to everything you are teaching the horse from hereon. Think of it as a volume switch. Always (always always!) start low on the volume when asking for/teaching a behavior, and only increase the volume incrementally until you get a try, then turn off the volume completely, no pressure for right answers. The faster your release there for right answers, the faster the horse learns, so get your release timing very quick. The release of pressure is the reward, though a praising, stroking hand (no pats) afterwards on the horse always speeds along learning. Lowest on the volume is: thought. You THINK what you want and a horse complies. So start with that always. You won't get them responding to just your "thought" at first, but after a while, if you always started there, eventually you will get them responding to your thought, believe it or not. Horses are amazingly perceptive, bright creatures. And pretty soon, up the road, you'll be riding your horse with just your mind, it will feel like, and that's the softness and easy compliance that natural horsemanship creates. But if you didn't start every ask with thought first, how will the horse ever learn to respond to just the thought? Natural horsemanship is about teaching a horse using "soft feel." You just experienced for the first time what "soft feel" is all about. Doesn't mean we don't turn up the volume when we need to, when the horse isn't listening, we indeed do, but if you start low on the volume always, this gives the horse a fair chance to think about what's coming next (higher volume). It's via thinking that a horse learns. Not forced, but: learned. And what gets learned, stays learned. Horses are designed by nature to recognize patterns quickly. And that's exactly what you're showing the horse there...low on the volume increases steadily until the horse responds, then the volume goes completely off (pressure off) with right answers and the horse then goes, "Oh, okay, I get it, there's a pattern here. If I respond low on the volume here, it never gets increasing pressure put on me. Cool. Got it!" By the way...I wouldn't let a horse lick my
fingers! I don't allow horses to put their mouths on me. That's how you can lose
a finger up the road! One chomp and your finger is gone, no matter how gentle
you think the horse is being now. We don't allow horse mouths on us ever. It's a
respect issue, too. But mostly about safety. Just something to think about
halting there--while you've still got 10 fingers! :-)
You're doing
great! Keep up the good work! Proud of ya! Question - Horse won't move forward once mounted: Dear Sylvia, I've been reading your web site and have especially enjoyed your Q&A section as I think your advice/training tips are excellent. I would appreciate some advice from you regarding my gelding. He is 12 years old, I've had him for 3 years, and he is a very well trained horse. The problem I am having with him lately is that once I've mounted, he refuses to move forward more often than not. At first I had a friend grab his lead rope to pull him forward and that worked, the second time he wouldn't budge. Yesterday a friend bumped his rear end from behind and he moved forward. Other times I've tried being patient and have let him stand there calmly and then he moved forward. As I said he came to me very well trained and in the past I believe he was a show horse. I've worked a lot with him in the round pen and he's excellent. It almost seems that once I've worked through one problem he comes up with something else just to "test" me. I've had to work with him on saddling and cinching, taking baby steps, etc. and now he is fine. Then I had to work with him to stand still while I mount and now he does just fine with this. As I said above, his latest trick is refusing to move forward. I've tried turning his head to make him circle and even this doesn't work. It's as if he's just being stubborn and trying to be "boss." Please help with any suggestions or advice. I simply adore him and once he gets going he is wonderful to ride. Many thanks, P. B. - Texas Sylvia's Answer: Hi P. You're on the right track there bending his head to get him going when he locks up like that, but you need to add in: bump the inside hind quarter to get him moving his hind end. Not forward at first, but in a circle. All forward impulsion in horses comes from the hind quarters, not the front quarters. The hind quarters are the "engine" of a horse (but a "rear wheel drive" engine), you might think of it like that. So...he's stalled his engine there. Bump the inside hind quarter with your stirrup there, starting small at first and building up to more assertive bumps (but release your leg off him the second he complies), while drawing in the inside rein (putting lots of slack in the outside rein so you don't confuse the horse) and the horse WILL move. But he'll move in a circle. But that's all right, just keep circling him. If you need to, circle him on both sides. At some point there, open up the "window," slack reins, point your hands forward to show him that the release of pressure there comes if he "goes forward." Horses don't like to circle, it's not really fun for them, and is "more work." So, in essence, you are making the right thing easy and the wrong thing hard, so that he'll make the right choice there (right choice being: go forward). He refuses to go forward, he's going to have to do circles as you bump his inside hind quarter. He goes forward, he gets the instant release of pressure (all slack in the reins and strokes on the neck, "good boy!") Also, make sure you are looking (with your eyes) where you want to go, not down at the horse or his head. Horses pick up on our focal point very well. And if you're looking down at their head at the same time you are asking for them to go, they figure you don't know where you want to go, so they balk at those times. Now...that said...I would definitely want to first rule out saddle fit/back pain. Often a horse refusing like that is due to saddle/back pain (or even mouth pain sometimes--make sure his teeth have been checked, and floated at least once a year). Please read my link on my site about checking for proper saddle fit/back pain here: Also...I have another link in my Q&A section that you might want to read over, regarding "horse won't go": -- in case you need to borrow any ideas from there as well. Let me know how it goes Reply From P.B. later: Hi Syl. I did exactly as you suggested there with my boy this weekend and it worked like a charm!!!!! I was so happy and so grateful to you for the excellent advice. He didn't like it and started moving forward before I had to wait to make him turn in an actual full circle. I'll be back out this weekend to work with him more. It certainly makes riding so much more fun. I can't thank you enough. Would love to meet you one day! Thanks for all very much! And for the encouragement. You've made both of us so much happier. P. B. - Texas Horse Problems Solutions in General - If you haven't discovered already on my web site, check out my Q&A/Horse Problems/Training Tips section for solutions to common horse issues. The problems are listed in alphabetical order by problem, and I add to the list regularly. You can check them out here: Horse Training Tips and Solving Common Horse Problems - Q&A - If you have a horse problem that you do not see listed up there, feel free to email me and I will get back to you as soon as I can. Training Success Letters of the Month - Read latest success stories with our Natural Horsemanship Training Program - Click here: Letters of the Month Past Virginia Natural Horsemanship Training Center Newsletters Are Archived Here: News & Press
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