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February 2006 |
Dear Friends: I hope this finds everyone well settled
into the new year and accustomed to writing "2006"
without having to think twice! :-) We've been extremely
busy here
at the Virginia
Natural Horsemanship Training Center training horses,
working with clients, and lining up new natural horsemanship
products as well as pulling together our exciting 2006
clinics/appearances schedule (more on that below).
...I really appreciate you guys' support and all the stuff you've sent me. You have no idea how much that kind of stuff boosts not only my morale, but the morale of the guys around me here. Thank you so much!! Trevor did ask me to pass along to remind people to package contents securely. Some boxes are falling apart before they arrive there, losing the contents, especially if a box is left half full (air space left in them). Apparently they take quite a beating on their (usually 10-day) arduous journey to Iraq/their base there. So fill air space with stuffed newspapers, etc. so contents don't bounce around, compromising the box. Oh and my cousin Patty in Florida told me (she learned the hard way!): don't use liquor store boxes, even though they are usually very strong, unless you cover the box with brown paper. According to Patty, who was attempting to ship a care package to Trevor, the post office won't ship anything to our troops that references alcohol on the outside. Who knew? Trevor also said to tell everyone that he's just heard a rumor that they are moving on soon to a new location in the next 30 days potentially and we should probably hold off sending boxes right now until he knows their new location/address (they can't take anything with them when they move on). I'll keep you posted on the new location when we know anything. Again, thank you from the bottom of our hearts for all the immense support we feel from all of you and your support of Trevor one-to-one with emails to him and care packages. It matters greatly! On this note...someone emailed me to call my attention to a fine organization called "Military Pets Foster Project." This organization works to find foster homes for horses, dogs and cats, etc., of military personnel who are suddenly deployed. Check out their web site and think about becoming a foster home to these militarily stranded pets: http://www.netpets.org/mpfosterpress.html
We are finalizing our Virginia Natural Horsemanship Training Center Whispering Way™ Clinic Series which will begin in April and run throughout the year here in Blacksburg, Virginia. We have lots of exciting clinics planned here in our series, including other top talented Natural Horsemanship guest fellow clinicians we are lining up to do clinics along with me, as well as my own clinic series we'll be presenting. We'll be formally announcing our clinic schedule in next month's newsletter and will get them posted up on my web site schedule as soon as everything is finalized. So that you can be thinking ahead...we are lining up to do some clinics with me here: my good friends and top natural horsemanship trainer/clinicians Clay Harper (out of Colorado), Ed Dabney (out of Georgia), and Julie Goodnight (Colorado). Check out their web sites and plan to join us. Going to be an exciting year of learning for all of us! To start off the year, come see us at the Equine Event East in Chantilly, Virginia, on March 17-19. We'll be there! Look for our booth and come introduce yourselves! We all can learn from each other!
Horse Training Thought For the Month - Natural Horsemanship Tenet Focus at all times on what you want your horse to do, not what you fear your horse will do. How many times have we been riding our horse and suddenly our minds divert to, "Uh oh...I hope the horse doesn't... (pick your fear here)!" And shortly after that thought filters through our heads, the horse indeed acts out our vision there. What you might not realize is: the horse picks up that thought fear almost instantly. Horses are highly intuitive creatures. They are more perceptive to what you suddenly focus on (even in just your mind!) than most people realize. And that's how they survive as a herd prey animal in general. They stay extremely perceptive to what another herd member might suddenly fear, especially the "herd leader" (because alas it might be a predator approaching!) and they brace for flight then or spook, act out, etc. In natural horsemanship, we apply prey animal psychology as we serve as benevolent "herd leader" to our horse. So it's natural for the horse to remain highly perceptive to us (as the herd leader), and something you might suddenly sense or fear or even dread, the horse is indeed going to pick up on instantly. There's a way around that problem and it is simple: focus your mind and thoughts only on what you want the horse to do, not what you fear the horse will do, and he will better cooperate there. Say, for example, you want to cross a stream up ahead while riding your horse and your thought might be "Uh oh, he's going to balk here, I just know it..." which instantly will be translated through your body language, even subtly and down to the horse, and he'll indeed manifest that thought quite often through his actions. Solution: Do the opposite there: squelch that fear-of-balk thought and instead, glance down at the stream first to make sure it is safe to cross, then focus your eyes (and your mind!) far ahead to the other side of the stream, keeping your eyes locked on that focal point, and envision your horse walking calmly through the stream to the other side. Don't look down at the horse (he knows when you're looking down, not ahead! And if you're looking down at him, he perceives you don't know where to lead him, and he balks/halts), but instead: just focus on where you want the horse to go, and 99% of the time, he'll indeed go if you maintain that clear-headed focus! You can practice this in an arena first by focusing ahead on a distant post and ride your horse straight for it, teaching the horse to remain attuned to your focus there, correcting with the reins if he veers off that direct line, leaving him alone (slack in the reins) when he's straight there. Once you reach the post, turn your head and now focus on another distant post and without removing your eyes from that next post, ride your horse in a straight line toward it, and so on. This will get your horse listening well to your focus and get you learning how to direct better with your mind and eyes. It's also a good exercise in general to teach a horse to ride straight. Most horses aren't born knowing how to ride a straight line, believe it or not, because it's simple not something they generally do in the wild or in pastures (they "meander"). And that initial inability to ride straight can be at the root of so many in saddle irrational behaviors (especially in higher gaits) if not broken down like this to teach them to ride straight, listening to your focus. So taking the time to practice this direct-focus/straight line riding goes a long, long way in their training foundation! And it will train you to better direct your horse via your mind, your focus and not letting your negative thoughts or fears get in the way there. To learn how to train your horse yourself, step by step the natural horsemanship way, think about getting the Gentle Solutions book I co-wrote, which you can read more about and order here: https://scotttechgroup.securelook.com/SylviaScott/VNHTCProducts.htm#GentleSolutionsBook Check These Out!
Valentine's Day for Horse Lovers! - February
is Valentine's Day month and rather than the usual valentine's
day card, flowers or chocolates, get creative for your horse
loving friend, partner, or child! Since February is
also winter/horse downtime in many parts of the world, nothing
beats wintertime horse-antsy blues and fosters Valentine
togetherness like a rousing horse game or indoor horse
activity. I have recently added a new section to my web
site that lists horse games in several different fun categories
-- click on the following and check them out and get one
for your Valentine!:
The recipient can then apply the certificate towards orders placed here on-line by entering the certificate number along with their other ordering information. The certificates may also be used in person here at the Virginia Natural Horsemanship Training Center towards payments for products, services, clinic participation or training. Certificates may be redeemed within twelve months of the date of issue. To check out our Gift Certificates and order one today, click here: https://scotttechgroup.securelook.com/SylviaScott/VNHTCProducts.htm#GiftCertificates
Of Women and Horses - For a great article by my good friend and natural horsemanship training colleague, Julie Goodnight, about the special connection between women and horses, Click Here: Horse Rescues/Rehab Centers - I'm a big supporter of equine rescues. Periodically I plan to briefly mention some here. Visit them, their web sites, get in touch with them, see what you can do to help. And if you are looking for a new horse, rescues are sometimes the best place to start your search. Adopting a horse and giving it a wonderful new home can be a positive life-altering experience. And volunteering time at a rescue can help you to learn more about horses -- horses are the best teachers there are! This month, I'd like to call attention to White Bird Appaloosa Horse Rescue in Marshall, Virginia. Visit their web site at: www.whitebirdapps.com For a list of other equine rescues around the country/world, visit here: http://horsewelfare.8k.com/rescues.html or here: http://www.equinerescue.com/staterescues.html Horse
Problem Questions From You & Question - Horse "facial swirls"
and what do they mean?: Hi,
I am trying to find some information on horses "swirls." I
read one of Linda Tellington-Jones' books on the subject,
but now am unable to find it. Hopefully you can help
locate it for me?? Thanks!
Y. N. - Washington State Sylvia's Answer: Hi. Thanks for writing. Horse Facial "Swirls" is about an interesting "science" that Linda Tellington-Jones has brought to the forefront of the horse world and it's rather interesting. Let me go into it a bit here.
Horse Facial Swirls
According to Linda Tellington-Jones, you
can analyze your horse's
personality based on his facial
swirls and this is discussed in Linda-Tellington
Jones' book, Getting in Touch: Understand and Influence Your Horse's
Personality.
What are facial swirls? Facial swirls are kind of like the "cowlick" that humans have in the hair on their head -- which is a lock or tuft of hair growing in a different direction from the rest of the hair, usually in a circular pattern. Well, horses have them too, these "cowlick" swirls, but they have them somewhere on their face. And according to Linda Tellington-Jones (the founder of T-Touch), based on her research, you can assess a horse's personality based on the location of, and even number of, swirls you find there on the horse's face. Linda talks about the swirls on horses' faces being like our fingerprints and, like fingerprints, no two are just alike, and some breed associations even use them as identification marks. Linda has studied facial swirls since 1965 and has found her assessments to hold true about 70% of the time. She says you have to look at other factors as well, such as ears, eyes, mouth, not just look at the swirls, to deduce personality traits. Sometimes, she says, other physical characteristics will override the swirl in character/personality assessment. Linda describes several types of horse facial swirls and what they mean: 1. A single swirl between or above the horse's eye is the standard displayed by the majority of horses in her studies. This positioning indicates a horse with a generally uncomplicated nature, but there are variations. Swirls may be set to one side or the other. Swirls set to the left as you face the horse will tend to indicate a bit more complicated horse, but still trustworthy. Swirls set to the right may be less cooperative horses than those with center or to the left swirls. In general, swirls of this sort are less indicative of character than the more complex patterns. 2. A single swirl several inches below the eyes, Linda found 80% of horses with this feature are unusually imaginative and intelligent. They like to amuse themselves creatively like: turn on water, open stall doors, untying complicated knots ("locking picking" horses), find ways to escape pastures ("Horse Houdini's"), etc. These horses are usually of above average intelligence and are interesting characters to deal with. 3. A single long swirl that may be between the eyes, or extend below, indicates a horse who is friendly and particularly enjoys relating to people. 4. Two swirls adjoining, either one above the other, or side by side -- these can be above, between, or below the eyes and are sometimes set at an angle to each other: Horses with this tend to be more emotional and over-reactive than average. They tend to become upset without apparent reason, and at unexpected moments. When such horses blow up, the best way to handle them is to back off and allow them to settle. Punishing them doesn't help; in fact it usually only aggravates the behavior more and can even bring on more resistance. However, Linda says, a horse like this can be a great horse; she has had some of her best show horses with this configuration, but generally, horses with this pattern are not ideal for inexperience riders. 5. Three swirls close together on the forehead (not up under the forelock) is rare. In geldings and mares this indicates a complex individual but not an unpredictable one; stallions, however, with three swirls are another story -- about 80% of the stallions Linda has observed having this three-swirl marking have exhibited unreliable, often dangerous behavior. Linda feels the best way to use facial swirls in analyzing horse personality is to evaluate them in conjunction with all other characteristics of the horse's head. The book this information is from is: ALSO: Linda Tellington-Jones now has out an interesting video on this subject and here's more about that video:
It is certainly an interesting topic! Hope this answers your question and helps you there! Question - Should a child interested in a horse career go to college?: I have an almost 16-year-old granddaughter that would love to get into some kind of "horse" job. Maybe ranch or training. Just something. We want her to go to college. Can you give me some kind of education, experience, etc., that she would need to get? What type of classes should she consider taking? Thank you for any help. "Granny" A. S. - Internet Sylvia's Answer: Hi A. I, too, think college is crucial for kids, even the horse lover/obsessed kids. College, even an equine program at a college, gives a more well-rounded foundation and education for all future horse (and overall life!) endeavors. For example, my college major was "developmental psychology" (not equestrian related) and that actually gave me the best foundation I could ever have (for me) for everything I do every day, even with horses (especially with horses!) and with clients I deal with daily and in clinics I do. More and more colleges are setting up equestrian & horse training programs, and even natural horsemanship training programs, with college degrees in those fields. College actually fast tracks students there in these fields, doesn't slow them down (as the kids might think initially), so continue with encouraging her to go to college! You're on the right track there. However, as the mother of 3 grown children myself (who all went/or are still going to college), I think it's important to listen deeply to the young person's desires and fire inside them for a particular field. That's usually the field they are meant to be in, will be good at. That said, let me direct you to a page on my web site, My Equine Jobs page here, because in the left margin of that page there is a lot more information and links for horse-related colleges/education and more, which will help you sort this out with her better: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/EquineJobs.html Pass that to your granddaughter, too, the links there; it will help her to find good goals that do involve a college education, but not compromising her passion for horses and career goals whatsoever. In fact, it will help her more strongly achieve those goals. Hope this helps and good luck to you there!
Question - Horse stops dead/refuses when asked to trot or canter: Hi Sylvia! I have a 3-year-old mare who has been showing signs of
not wanting to move off when asked to trot & lope. She
stops, (freezes), then moves anywhere but forward. I have
examined her for soreness of which I find none. She moves
freely in the pasture and in the round pen with no apparent
difficulties. A trainer friend of mine suggested I trail
ride her and ask her to move off to see if it's an arena
sour issue or not. Yesterday I did and she displayed the
same reaction. My husband says I've spoiled her and she's
just testing me, i.e. she's lazy & doesn't want to work.
I have also studied my saddle fit. I have no problem saddling
her - she doesn't move away or give me any indication that
she doesn't want the saddle on her. This is the first mare
I've owned. She seems to be in season at the moment. Would
that have anything to do with this behavior? When she first
started this I didn't give up or get off, but I did get
frustrated and let her know it. Sorry to say but it made
me mad. That's the last thing I want to feel and relay to
my horse!! Thank you for your reply.
S. H. - Bronson, FL Sylvia's Answer: Hi S. This is a hard one to coach from a distance, mainly because I can't see the dynamics at play there in person, but I'll pass along some suggestions you can play around with. Since you've ruled out pain issues and saddle issues, then you are left to assume that this is a behavioral/training issue. Since you say she's been doing this for a while, I highly doubt it's because she's in season. She's doing it because she's gotten away with doing that. All horses learn from the release of pressure what it is we want/what it is they can do, not from the pressure itself. Since she's been getting her releases there for not moving off when asked to, she's learned: that's what she can do. The trick there is to make the right thing easy, the wrong thing hard to change her attitude there. When you ask her to move forward there and she refuses, giving a "I don't want to, I don't have to" freeze response like you described, instantly make the right thing easy, the wrong thing hard: start turning her in circles. Bump her hind quarters over with your inside foot, while you take slack in with the inside rein and have her turn a few circles. Then do this on the opposite side. Get animated, have her do them fast, make it in the category of: hard work. Horses don't like going in circles very much, that's hard work! After a few minutes of doing this, ask her to go forward again. If she complies, instantly let slack in the rein and leave her alone (feet off her too). That's the release for right answer. Given a choice of going forward or going in circles, a horse will always choose: going forward, that's easier. Give her a rest there, all pressure off, just let her walk quietly, to show her: right answer. Stroke the neck, "good girl!" (never pat a horse for reward; only stroke or scratch) Once she's going forward well at every ask and you now want increased speed (the trot), have a pre-cue sequence for that, but starting low on the pressure scale and climbing higher only as needed. Use this sequence consistently and she should get the hang of it (but stop asking/pressure off, the second you get what you want): 1) Cluck or kiss to her while you lean forward with your body, like you are already going into the trot (or canter), without her at first (means: I want more/faster here, come on, let's go!) 2) Squeeze your seat (your butt/upper thighs) 3) Squeeze your knees 4) Bump with your heels 5) Raise your arm back toward the rump 6) If still no compliance by this point, tap or "spank" the rump with something like my training string (I use for this sometimes and for many other training purposes -- you can get one here: https://scotttechgroup.securelook.com/SylviaScott/VNHTCProducts.htm#TrainingString) - Not aggressive, but assertive, there's a difference. It doesn't hurt the horse; it just reminds the hind quarters (where all forward impulsion in a horse comes from) that you want them engaged more now. See...I have no doubt I could get your horse to go there, because not to would not be an option with her. The second she complies, goes into the trot (or canter if you're asking for that), instantly release all pressure, slack in reins, feet off the horse -- real important to put slack in the reins there, not be pulling back, or you're sending mixed signals (saying "stop" and "go" all at the same time!). I see a great many riders doing that, pulling back on the reins, taking in the slack, at that moment (or worse, "balancing themselves" with the reins at increased gaits) and then they can't understand why the horse is confused. Release the horse's head (slack in reins!), opening that window in front of them when asking the horse to go or to speed up. When the horse does what we want, remove all pressure instantly (legs off the horse, keep slack in the reins). Remember: they learn from the release of pressure what it is we want/the right answer there, so get your release timing instant there for compliance: slack rein, feet off the horse. But it's real important to proceed in that above order, sequentially, so the horse has pre-cues that are predictable and consistent. Think of it as "Volume Thinking." Picture a volume switch on a digital radio (as a metaphor for how we communicate to horses in natural horsemanship). We always start low on the volume with our asks (always!), so that: 1) We give the horse the opportunity to comply with the softest request -- lowest on the volume would be: thought. We think what we want and the horse complies; 2) We then have somewhere upwards to go pressure-wise for our ask (higher on the volume switch) and; 3) The horse learns the pre-cue sequence there and starts "connecting the dots" for what is to come next. If you start low on the volume switch every single time, the horse will start complying lower & lower on the volume until we are seemingly riding them with our minds. I personally would want to fix this problem in a round pen, if you have access to that. There's also a two-people approach you can take there for fixing this problem, so the horse can get the cues and pre-cues down better, and I go into that here: Horse Won't Go - Horse stops after couple of steps into trot - http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/TrainingTips28.html In that two-person approach, have your husband be the backup ground person there and you in saddle. But even here, follow the Volume-Thinking pre-cue sequence so she learns how to respond lower & lower on the volumn scale. Your husband only steps in there when you've reached highest on the volumn pressure cue as he flags the horse on with additional ground pressure. And the horse will get it, you'll see. Incidentally, I myself would want to make sure the horse can do this at liberty (no rider, but saddled/bridled up) in the round pen first. I teach NH round penning psychology here: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/RoundPenning.html And incidentally, when round penning a horse at liberty with bridle/bit/reins, secure the reins so they don't fly over the horse's head and the horse accidentally steps on them (which could injure the teeth as the bit gets jerked out of the mouth) -- here's how to secure those reins: put the reins over the horse's head like you would to ride. Underneath the horse's neck, take the 2 reins and wind them around and around each other until they are fairly snug there. Open the bridle throat latch buckle and secure one rein inside that throat latch and buckle it in there. That will keep the reins securely on the horse and not bouncing around. A whole lot of in saddle problems are simply holes in the training (ground) foundation, so I would want to make sure the horse can do everything on the ground (without rider) before working on that in saddle. Can she change gaits when asked at liberty in the round pen with a kiss pressure? Important to know/work on. If you don't have access to a round pen, then construct a smaller squared area to work on this (roping off an arena perhaps so it's a smaller work area). I'm a huge proponent of ground work, the right ground work, because what they haven't been taught on the ground first can be a struggle for them to do in saddle sometimes. Play around with what I've passed along here and you should be able to work past this problem once and for all. Let me know how it goes.
Question - Horse can't be bridled on right side: Good Morning Sylvia. I wanted to let you know that I have enjoyed your web site, and I view it often, and have learned a lot. I have an 8-year-old quarter horse gelding. He is fairly green, and has only been ridden regularly for the past 2 years. We currently own his 36-year-old grandfather, and had at one time owned his mother, so we knew we were getting a horse of good stock. He has the most wonderful, soft temperament, and his only issue over the past 2 years was his confidence, thus rearing up often, but we have finally had wonderful breakthroughs this past season and have not had any rearing up or bucking episodes in the past year. My question to you is: he seems to take the bit easier on his right side than on his left side. Do you think this has something to do with his vision? Also, we did not own him the first 6 years of his life, so I do not know a lot about his history, other than his breeding and that he wasn’t ridden until 2 years ago. Thank you for any information you can provide me with. D. W. - Wake Forest, NC Sylvia's Answer: Hi D. Thanks for writing. It sounds to me like he might have an eye-changing problem there, which I go into here, and show how to flush out and fix that: Eye Changing Problem - What is an eye changing problem all about/how is it manifested?- http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/TrainingTips65.html But it also might be wise to have a vet check that eye as well, just to be on the safe side, and to rule out first any potential physiological problem. But if that's ruled out, then assume it's an eye-changing/behavioral problem and follow the exercises I describe in that link there. Eye changing problem is VERY common in green horses, by the way, but is fixable.
Question - Horse won't move in round penning exercise, just stands still: My horse will not move in the round pen. I have tried everything I can think of! I am getting frustrated and I don't want to make him fear me or hate the time spent with me. I am not the kind of person who sits there and will hit the horse until he moves. Anything you could tell me would help! E. N. - Internet Sylvia's Answer: Hi E. Thanks for writing. It's real hard to tell from here why the horse won't move, or what it is you're doing there or not doing. But first, I would want to rule out any pain issues. Sometimes when a horse is coming down with a hoof abscess, or is even mildly lame in one leg (read: in pain), they will be reluctant to move there. I've also heard of horses who are just about to colic not wanting to move there. So I would want to make sure a vet check rules out anything possible physical going on there before assuming this problem is strictly behavioral. It's not fair to make a hurting horse move if that makes him more uncomfortable. If that all rules out okay, then you have to assume this is a training problem. There's not a horse on this planet that I can't get going there, and fast, but it's about technique, body language, and understanding how to communicate to the horse correctly there, etc. If you haven't already, study my round penning section here: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/RoundPenning.html To get the horse going there, if this is just the case of a balking or sluggish, dull horse (and there are no physical or discomfort reasons involved) try this: take with you a rope, like a 12-foot heavy cotton rope, and spin the rope. But spin it vertically, not horizontally. And spin it overhand, not underhand. Start very, very small down the pressure scale at all times so that you have somewhere to go there with climbing pressure, and this also gives the horse the opportunity to get a right answer ("go") very low on the pressure ask/scale. Think of it as starting very low on the volume switch, and turning up that volume incrementally louder and louder (though be silent there, I'm using volume as simply a metaphor for you to grasp this concept). Start your spin as a very small loop, but if the horse doesn't comply to that, let the rope keep spinning larger and larger as you let out length in your hand. Let it start smacking the ground as you spin to add a noise pressure in there as you climb that volume pressure. Direct it toward (parallel to) the hind quarters. Any directing in front of the withers/in front of the horse's shoulder will simply send the horse backwards, not forwards, so direct your spin behind that shoulder/withers line to send the horse forward. Go as high up the pressure volume there as you can with that spin/smacking the ground with the rope if the horse doesn't comply lower, but the second the horse gives you forward motion, even a lean forward at first, immediately stop spinning, stop asking, release all pressure. All horses learn from the release of pressure what it is you want, not the pressure itself, so get your release timing very quick for right answers and the horse will learn what you want. But reward for the smallest try, slightest change in the right direct with that release. If the horse still will not give you any forward signs after all the above, do NOT stop asking/do not stop spinning that rope, or you will be releasing there for the wrong answer, and you just accidentally taught the horse to stand still! This is what I see most often when people tell me their horse won't go there -- they released before getting the asked-for behavior, and hence they just taught the horse to stand still, because all horses learn from the RELEASE of pressure what it is we want/or what it is they "can do." If the horse does not move forward when you've asked there, highest on the pressure scale/rope spinning widely, smacking the ground, you must not quit asking, but now let the end of the rope tap the rump as you spin. I don't know a horse alive who does not move off with that IF you started low on the pressure scale and built up incrementally like I describe. But the second you get movement forward, RELEASE, stop spinning, stop asking, go soft, passive. To show the horse: right answer. No pressure. We only add a pressure in there to get a change, otherwise, leave the horse alone, just remain facing them as they move around the round pen. I can't tell what you're doing wrong there, from here, without seeing it played out in person. But your answer is the above for any horse who doesn't want to move there in the round penning exercise. Not moving is not an option (unless he's ill or lame, that is the exception). You are the lead mare there and he is expected to be the herd follower. His not moving is not respecting your leadership. Get more assertive, but via following how I describe above. You can also try using a training wand with plastic tied to the end -- I sell them here, the kind I'm talking about: https://scotttechgroup.securelook.com/SylviaScott/VNHTCProducts.htm#TrainingWand And/or you can try using both the training wand with plastic in conjunction with a spinning rope, at the same time, if you're coordinated enough, to add additional pressure there if needed. But it's so important to stop your asking (stop spinning the rope, stop shaking the plastic on the wand) the second you get the smallest try, the slightest change in the right direction so that you do not dull out the horse to your requests. Dull horses are created by people who keep asking (and asking and asking) after the horse already gave you what you asked for -- that'll shut down a horse quicker than anything. He won't fear you if you direct him like I'm describing, don't worry about that. And you're not hurting him if the volume pressure escalates to the tapping on rump. But he will definitely not respect you if he thinks he doesn't have to move his feet when you've requested that. Horses follow a prey animal instinct that states "he who moves the other's feet is higher up on the pecking order and therefore the leader." A horse who won't let you move his feet is stating silently that he is the leader of your "herd of two," not you. And you do need to establish your leadership so that you can instruct your horse in all other training you will be doing with him. Stick with that and get him moving his feet (again, if vet rules out there are no hidden pain/illness issues) and you'll get on track there. Get assertive! Not aggressive, but assertive (there's a difference). Question - Horse fears water trough after "shock": Our thoroughbred is not drinking when pastured. This is a problem that began earlier this winter after he was shocked while trying to drink from the heated trough in his pasture. The shock occurred shortly after I had removed his turnout blanket. He walked to the water trough and lowered his head to drink. He lurched and bolted immediately after touching the water. I suspect that the process of removing his blanket had built up a charge on his coat. The charge discharged the instant his lips touched the water. I was suspicious at first that the trough heater had somehow failed but could not find any evidence of an electrical short in the heater unit. Although the conditions were cold and dry, I'm still surprised that removal of a synthetic blanket could build enough charge and that the charge wouldn't naturally dissipate quickly on a horse with four feet grounded. Ever since his “shocking” experience he'll spend all day in the pasture without drinking. Typically when he returns to his stall after a full days turn-out he'll drink a full bucket of water, if not more. He's turned out with other horses who all drink from the trough without problem but their example has not restored his confidence. Any thoughts on how we can get him to drink again from the trough during pasture turn-out? A. K. - Moraine, OH Sylvia's Answer: Hi A. Yes, couple of thinks might work to get him back on track there. Put a palm-sized measure of salt into his supplement feed for a start, to produce thirst (but don't give him water in the bucket), then, after he's eaten that, cut up apple halves, feed him one half right next to the water trough, then toss the rest of the apples in the trough and let him know that's where they are and hopefully he'll "bob for apples." This is a common route used to get a horse over a waterer/trough fear. Try that! I have a feeling the shock was caused by the water heater at the trough, though. I've heard of that happening before which is why those water heater devices make me very nervous! And why I'd rather go out and remove ice when needed off my own troughs here than put one of those devices in there until I see they have improved on them. I really don't think they have perfected those just yet, seems like to me because I hear of this happening frequently. Let me know if that works (might have to try a couple of times, don't give up!). Question - Spooky horse when riding, what to do?: Hello Sylvia. I have owned a silver white Arabian for 1 1/2 years. Arabians are high strung horses. He had not been ridden for two years and was spoiled for that time. In the first 3 months we danced A LOT. Now he has been for the rest of the time, a very good riding animal with a few spook episodes upon riding. He has never tried to buck, kick, bite or dislodge me from the saddle. He is now 13-years-old. I rode one week before Thanksgiving with my niece and her horse, who are always together. He was his usual self. My niece commented that she believed of the 3 horses we have, my horse was the best behaved when riding. On Thanksgiving weekend, my sister-in-law brought her horse so we could all ride together. My horse acted like a crazed animal. He jumped at everything and nothing. I've ridden 4 times more since then and he is still the crazed, spooked hunting horse. I don't know what to do anymore after trying some tough love and other tactics I could think of. Sometimes in the past the crop would straighten him right up. At other times, it's like it makes him crazy. I don't know what else to do. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you very much. P. H. - Alabama Sylvia's Answer: Hi P. Thanks for writing. Yes I have some suggestions for you there. You need to raise his "fear" bar there by backing up and doing some desensitizing of him, safely on the ground first. Nearly all problems in saddle can be traced to holes in the horse's foundation (ground) training, including the problem you're having there. I get horses like this all the time and I back up and fill in the foundation holes which indeed involves despooking them/sensitizing them, raising their fear bar there. So...it's back to ground work there, but the right ground work. Let me direct you to some specific links on my web site which will teach you extra desensitizing lessons you can work on, and which I highly recommend you do there --- and out the other side will come a calmer, more rational horse: Spooky Horse - Horse spooks at things in saddle - how to desensitize spooky horse: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/TrainingTips41.html Wand-Training Fear - Horse fears training wand with plastic/How to desensitize: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/TrainingTips78.html (tie a plastic bag to the end of a dressage whip, cutting the whip part off, if you don't have a long enough training wand -- or get from my web site store my extendable/retractable training wand) Tarp Desensitizing - Horse is afraid of plastic tarps: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/TrainingTips84.html (Don't skip this one! It'll go a long way multi-directions, you'll see!!) Then work on planting into her foundation the one-rein stop/safety-bonding zone (on the ground first) which I teach how to do here -- I plant this into every horse's foundation before ever riding, so it's crucial to have down, to use it to draw upon when needed to settle a horse down and bring them back to rational mode: One Rein Stop - How to do it and why it's important: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/TrainingTips94.html And work on the ground for a start, using some of these relaxing/bonding techniques -- especially teaching the horse to drop the head and your finger in the mouth to relax the horse...more about that here: Horse Whispering "Tricks of the Trade" - To relax horse, build trust & bond them to us: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/TrainingTips58.html And don't punish when a horse is spooked like that, that will only make things worse, as they are flight prey animals who feel the need to flee when afraid, instinctively. So don't abuse as your method there (hitting a horse with a crop when they are frightened is abuse to me) because that will only increase the fear, escalating the situation, but use prey animal psychology know-how instead to fix them, which is what natural horsemanship is all about. To learn a little more about NH and applied prey animal psychology, read my What is NH? link here: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/WhatIsNH.html Back up and work on all the above, because this is about foundation holes you just don't realize are there, and they need to be plugged up -- safely on the ground first following the above routes. And you should get on better ground there quickly. Hope this helps and do let me know how it goes. Horse Problems Solutions in General - If you haven't discovered already on my web site, check out my Q&A/Horse Problems/Training Tips section for solutions to common horse issues. The problems are listed in alphabetical order by problem, and I add to the list regularly. You can check them out here: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/TrainingTips.html - If you have a horse problem that you do not see listed up there, feel free to email me and I will get back to you as soon as I can. Training Success Letters of the Month - Read latest success stories with our Natural Horsemanship Training Program - Click here: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/LettersOfTheMonth.html Past Virginia Natural Horsemanship Training Center Newsletters Are Archived Here: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/News&Press.html
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add you onto our list: Announcements Ride the Remuda Productions, Inc. announces half-price admission to Road to the Horse for members of youth riding clubs and their advisors—making the two-day event a great educational value at just $26. Youth from 4-H, Future Farmers of America, Pony Club, and breed organizations’ youth divisions will be welcomed and honored during the colt-starting competition February 25-26, 2006. The Road to the Horse challenge begins each day (7:00 a.m. on Saturday and 8:00 a.m. on Sunday). Be there to learn from returning Champion Clinton Anderson, then watch as Craig Cameron, Van Hargis, Martin Black and Stacy Westfall vie for a chance to claim their own Road to the Horse championship title. 2006 Road to the Horse Colt Starting Challenge In Murfreesboro, Tennessee, February 25-26, 2006 - emceed by top equine radio host Rick Lamb, of The Horse Show and The Horse Show Minute Tickets are on Sale! For more information, visit the Road to the Horse web site at: www.roadtothehorse.com Check Out These Other Natural Horsemanship Web Sites Since I firmly believe we all can learn from each other, I will periodically direct folks to the web sites of other fine NH trainer colleagues of mine, where more can be learned. Check out these when you get a chance:
Chris Irwin: www.chrisirwin.com
Harry Whitney: www.harrywhitney.com
For a list of more leading natural horsemanship trainers, click here: Other NH Trainers Events This Month
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