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Horse Problem - Pawing/Foot Handling - Horse paws when asking for the front feet

 

 


 

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QUESTION: Sylvia: I am working on training two mustangs. I am at the point where I am working with their feet. The one horse, I can lift and hold his feet up and hold them for several seconds. The other horse I put pressure on the rope to lift his feet up but then he starts pawing at the ground, trying to get the rope off. I am trying to hold pressure on the rope (to not release for this behavior) but it continues to either come off his foot or moves up his left and I try to keep pressure on even when he paws but it is difficult. Is there something I am missing here that I need to do when he starts pawing at the ground? I am still working on his front feet and have not moved to the back ones yet.
 
REPLY: I'm assuming you've read and studied this horse foot handling link on my site for how to teach the horse to give the foot, using pressure/release for those lessons: http://www.naturalhorsetraining.com/TrainingTips16.html
 
When a horse is very kicky there, like you're seeing, that is when I like to switch to using my training string (as well as have the horse in the natural horsemanship halter/12' lead). You can check out/order my training string here if you want to get one: TRAINING STRING

The beauty of this handy, multi-purpose tool (I carry one in my pocket at all times when training) for the foot handling desensitizing lessons: one end of the training string has a loop in it, the other end, a leather "popper." For a real kicky/leg swinging or pawing horse, I take the training string and put it around the leg (after desensitizing the horse to the touch of the string first via rubbing and sliding/sawing it up and down his leg while I hold two ends), then I run the popper end thru the loop end and I draw the string snugly on the foot in the pastern area (the pastern is the region above the hoof and below the fetlock on a horse’s leg).

Since the training string is 6 feet long, this now gives me a good length of rope to hold the foot and the horse can't shake it out of my hand, nor shake it off his leg, plus it stays snugly on the foot in that one spot, not slipping whatsoever. I often wear leather gloves for this particular exercise if the horse has a bad enough problem there, so I don't get rope burned accidentally, and I can grip more strongly. I hold the lead rope that's attached to the NH halter with my forward hand, keeping no slack in the lead rope. I Choke up on the lead so the horse really can't go anywhere (if he moves, I will pull his head toward me, and that safely moves the hind quarters away from me, and we move in a tight circle).

The training string is in my hand closest to the foot. Ex: if I'm working on the horse's left front foot, I'll be standing on the left side of the horse, slightly in front, my left hand will hold the lead rope, choking up there so I have control of the horse's head with that hand; my right hand holds the training string that is around the horse's foot. I start off applying a tiny bit of string pressure forward (slack pulled out of the string), asking for the horse's foot, just a "try" at first. It's important to pull forward, not sideways, so we can encourage the knee bend. If the horse gives even a try (even a weight shift at first, preparing for the foot lift!), I release the pressure instantly (slack in the training string) to show "right answer." Stroke, praise. Dozens of times I do this before actually asking for more foot. Always reward for the smallest try, slightest change in the right direction with a release (many times!) and the horse will get there faster. Long way is the short way here!

However, if the horse picks up the foot and starts swinging it around at any time, kicking out, pawing, etc. (what you're seeing there), I keep the pressure (no slack, no "give") there, not releasing for that incorrect answer to my pressure. All horses learn from the release of pressure what it is we want, not the pressure itself, so we don't want to be releasing for kicking or pawing, etc., there, but we want to be releasing for calm compliance: lifting the foot up quietly, rationally. Just steadfastly hold out the kicking/pawing, with the training string kept taut, no release. No horse can kick/paw forever, just hold it out. There will come a moment there when the horse takes a break for a second from the kicking/pawing. A brief pause - be perceptive to see it! I release instantly at that pause/no kicking/no pawing point, slack put in the training string. Stroke, reward, pause. The horse quickly learns that when he doesn't kick out/paw is when he gains the release there, and a pause break for the right answer, a stroke for reward. If your timing is real quick for releasing for the non-kick/non-pawing spot, the horse will quickly learn what is expected of him and will start steering in that positive direction.

Now...if you're not getting results there and the horse keeps pawing/kicking, you might be going too far too fast. Back up and break it down into smaller baby steps, rewarding for smaller increments, correct baby step tries, allowing you the opportunity to give more baby step releases for right answer responses, so the horse can better "connect the dots" in the puzzle.

But I can't emphasize enough that using the training string for this particular lesson with horses who kick around a lot with their legs is the tool of choice, gives you far more control. And with the 6' length, you can always step back a safe distance while still not releasing for leg flailing behavior. It's great!

All of the above (and much, much more) is taught in my Whispering Way 12-Step Total Training System DVD set. Usually it helps to see this natural horsemanship art taught visually, to really understand how it is all done. You can get that DVD set here: CLICK HERE

Back to Horse Problems Q&A, Click Here:

 
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