A lowered head is a relaxed horse; a high head is a tense, "on alert" horse, so it's important to teach the horse to lower his head (relax!) on cue. While still rubbing on the horse (bonding), ease into encouraging the horse to yield his head and neck by slowly applying pressure downward with the lead rope. Don't jerk the rope! Simply apply steady downward pressure. The second the horse gives an inch, release the pressure, allowing baby steps (even a small try) to be acceptable. The horse learns through the release, not the pressure, what it is you want: a lowered and softly yielding neck and head. Step by step.

 Squatting on the ground lowers your stature, which makes you appear less threatening to the horse, and it also encourages the horse to lower his head to "check you out down there!" (I'm squatting here.) While squatting, apply slow, steady pressure downward on the lead rope until the horse gives even an inch and then release, getting that timing very accurate and refined.  

Keep this up until the horse's head reaches the ground (I'm squatting here).  Then reward and love on the horse from down low, as I'm doing here. This makes lowering the head a pleasureful experience for the horse. And Doc is learning to yield his neck softly at the same time.

 To help the horse relax and to facilitate head lowering or yielding better, stick a finger in the corner of his mouth and this triggers the horse to work his mouth, lick his lips. This is especially effective if you ever get "stuck" in neck-yielding lessons. When a horse is working his mouth (naturally) he is saying "I understand/I get it/Okay, I'll relax/You're the leader." When you manufacture this mouth-working yourself by sticking a finger in the corner of his mouth, feathering the tongue, while still applying downward pressure on the rope (remove your finger once he starts working the mouth), this accomplishes the same thing: he relaxes and lets his neck go looser. This helps the horse to make a better mental connection between the pressure on the rope and relaxing his neck, "giving." A Note: horses are rarely being stubborn; they are simply sometimes "stuck." Remember that and help nurture them through the stuck spot, compassionately.

Here Doc is working his mouth after I have stuck a finger in the corner. This is not just a one-time technique, but also a great "horse whispering" tip in general to help relax a tense horse at any time! Their mind follows their body in this case. Working the mouth relaxes them, so you facilitate the relaxation artificially with this "tool."

 To further help the horse learn that pressure downward should translate to lowering the head, you also can apply slow, steady pressure to the top of the head, but release the pressure the second the horse gives even an inch. And repeat. Until the head is completely down. The horse must experience the release of your pressure (even each step of the way, if needed), or he will not understand what it is you want and will only learn to resist. Repeat: the horse learns the correct response ONLY through the release of pressure.

Get the horse accustomed to an arm around the neck, where this gives him an opportunity to see you from his other eye as well.  Horses only see for the most part what is on either side of them (not directly behind them, nor directly in front of them, which are their blind spots) because their eyes are on the sides of their heads, not in front together like ours are. And there is a reason for this: horses are prey animals, while man technically is a predator. All prey animals have their eyes on the sides of their heads so that they can see farther around them to the sides, to watch for a potential predator attack. Because horses are flight animals, some can get suddenly startled if "something" appears "out of nowhere" on their off-eye (the outside eye), so get him used to seeing you on BOTH sides of him, at the same time, as often as you can; this will translate over to later when you are in the saddle. Deep down, in their basic instinct level is this fact: The only time they are generally approached/touched on both sides at the same time (in the wild) is during a predator attack! So doing this exercise as often as you can also helps to create a more self-confident, fear-free, trusting horse. To read more about horse vision, which will help you tremendously in understanding the "both sides approach" CLICK HERE. Young horses, like Doc is, sometimes especially need to get familiar with this "both sides" desensitization. Rub on them while you are doing this, so that the experience is pleasureful and they learn to welcome it; encourage them to drop their heads as well while doing this.

 Squatting while encouraging the horse's head to come down speeds the yielding-understanding process along tremendously. Your lowered stature also shifts a horse's mind to a more willing, softer place, especially if you ever get to a "stuck" spot in this lesson. Their mind follows their body. Try it! You'll see. Note: With wilder or more wired horses, always squat to the side to remain safest.

Squatting isn't just a one-time technique, either, but use it often. It's amazing how approaching a horse from this non-threatening, non-predatory position can shift their minds softly, often instantly, whenever needed. Remember though: If you're dealing with a skittish or "hotter" horse, squat to the side of them, facing forward, not in front. Doc is a mellow guy by nature, so I can squat anywhere around him safely. Remember to love on them from this position, rubbing their favorite spots! Doc is actually NOT eating grass here.  He's choosing to be loved-on instead. Ahhhh…

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