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- More Bonding,
Head Yielding
- And
- Rope Desensitization
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I continue to bond
on Sampson, my body still soft, helping him to relax. It's important
to maintain soft eyes, soft body language
in yourself as the leader here; it helps
the horse to relax, to build confidence
and to trust. Note, Sampson is still
not haltered at this point; my halter remains
by my side. I do as much work without
the halter until I feel the need for it
to progress. Also note that I'm
rubbing the side of his neck. Mother
horses rub their foals on the side of the
neck in this manner when the foal needs
comfort and support, and so horses greatly
understand this specific form of reassurance.
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- I start
head yielding without the halter,
because we'd worked on that in our
last session; and Sampson remembered
it all nicely. He yields his
neck softly and easily. If you ended a last session on a
positive, the horse comes into the
next on an even higher level of understanding
plane than when you left them last,
and newly learned skills come back
to them quickly.
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Here I'm reviewing
head yielding to the side with Sampson.
I get as far as
I can with the head yielding without the
halter, and when I perceive Sampson has gone
as far as he can without it, threshold-wise,
I halter
for the next progressive steps. It's
important to give the horse an opportunity
to succeed without outside aids as often as you
can; it helps to build trust and confidence
in them.
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After haltering
Sampson, so we can keep progressing,
I'm teaching him to yield, using gentle pressure
and then quick release of that pressure
when he gives the yield (timing of those
releases is crucial!); I'm using
the lead rope this time, instead of just
my hand on his "nose handle," to
yield his neck to the side. This will
help him later in translating reins as simply
an extension of what he's learning here
on the ground.
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When he succeeds
in the neck yield softly, I breathe into
his nose with my nose. Horses love this. Nose-to-nose
breathing is a helpful "horse
whispering"
technique, which can work wonders on horses
as a reward.
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Since
I knew that one of Sampson's biggest problems
was pullback, I also noticed earlier that
part of the problem, besides not understanding
yielding to pressure, was: he had serious
rope issues. He feared the rope. So, in
this
lesson we are going to work on desensitizing
him more to ropes. Often a horse problem
involves in actuality several factors, in
multiple categories, not
just one, so it's important to break them
all down and take baby steps to work on
each facet separately. Today we're going
to just focus on the rope issues. Later
we'll work on the pullback problem. With my left
hand, I'm holding the lead rope and rubbing
his neck reassuringly as I prepare to toss
the rope over his back with my right hand.
If he panics, I can always pull his head
towards me, which will serve to disengage
his hindquarters, keeping those potentially
more dangerous back feet away from
me.
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I toss and rub
at the same time so that Sampson knows
I'm not really asking anything of him, just
to stand still and accept the rope.
Sampson's body is tense; this isn't
easy for him.
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To
help nurture him through his fear of ropes,
I stop to bond when necessary. It's
important to try not to push the horse over
his threshold, and instead to nurture him
before he reacts explosively. Reward
the try and you'll get there faster.
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However, if
he feels the need to move, to work out his
fears of the rope, I let him,
but I disengage the hindquarters at the
same time, to keep safe during this desensitizing
process. As "flight animals,"
horses often work out their
fears via movement; so let them move if
they feel the need, and this lessens any feelings
of entrapment.
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I
test to see if Sampson has rope-twirling
issues, which with non-rope-issue horses,
this is no big deal, and they stand still
tolerating it. Not so with Sampson!
It set him off big time, indicating
to me that his rope issues were pretty big.
You can't really tell by this picture, but simple
rope twirling set him off to do his
"pull-back" habit, and he'd spin
around me out of control, trying to pull
the rope out of my hand. Time to back up
to something more comfortable! When a
horse goes "over the top," simply
return to where they were comfortable and
break the lesson down into even smaller
increments,
more easily digestible baby steps.
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After I quiet Sampson via rebonding (always return to bonding
when the horse needs it to nurture them
back to a better spot), we step back
to work on just the rope touching his face.
I keep my body soft, and my movements soft,
so he knows I'm not really asking anything
of him. I spent some time just wadding up
the rope and rubbing his face and his body
with it, and then I begin to dangle it over
his face, across his eyes as you see here.
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Sampson
is getting better here now. If you compare this
picture to the one just above, note the
subtle changes
in his body language as he slowly learns
to accept the rope being tossed on his face
from this close distance (a baby-step precursor
to later twirling the rope from a distance
and eventually twirling it around his face
and ears - later). It's
important to pick up the "smallest try,
the slightest change," in the
horse so that you have an opportunity to
reward. If you can't see the difference
in these two sequential pictures, look again!
There's a big change. That's how perceptive
you need to be in Natural Horsemanship training
so
that you can perceive the "smallest
try, the slightest change" for release
and reward purposes in order to help
the horse succeed and progress. He's
doing nicely here, so I walk away while
it's working. It is so important to stop
while something is working; later when
you come back to it, they are in a
better spot than they were before, if you
stopped while it was working and they are
succeeding.
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- More
Training Sampson Photos
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